TEXT BY NATALIE YIASSOUMI
Malone Souliers x Roksanda, Victoria Beckham and Christopher Kane were among the biggest winners.
London Fashion Week has always been known as a hotbed for creativity, home to some of the most eccentric designers in the world birthed by the famous Central Saint Martins.
While the creativity factor is still going strong, the London Fashion Week calendar is now filled with more established names who have been gaining some commercial acumen too and expanding their collections to include bags, shoes and accessories. That’s why this was one of the first seasons with plenty to take note of in the shoe department too: Victoria Beckham and Emilia Wickstead introduced their own footwear ranges shy of a year ago and they seem to be going from strength to strength; Malone Souliers debuted more standout boots as part of its ongoing collaboration with Roksanda; while Christopher Kane wow’ed the front row with his sexy lace pumps.
Here, we round up some of our favourite styles:
J.W. Anderson is top of the list. He is often referred to as one of London’s golden boys for his ability to churn out stellar collections consistently and this season, industry experts collectively agreed that he had outdone himself with his modernist collection full of big, striking silhouettes and unusual textures and embellishments. When it came to the shoes, he applied the same playful approach: There were furry ballet flats that were embellished with gold chain anklets and had a whiff of Phoebe Philo and a pair of patent leather pumps featuring extra-large crystal circles hanging from the straps – a statement piece to say the least.
Victoria Beckham is also considered to be one of London’s biggest highlights and images of her famous family sitting on the front row of her show, tend to break the Internet season after season. This time round Beckham continued to deliver easy-going, modernist clothes for her clientele of power women but punched things up a little bit when it came to the shoes – perhaps the most interesting part of the show, where she let her sexier, Spice Girl side come back alive.
She offered statement thigh-high boots in bold red or blue shades and chose to forego the square-toe mania in favour of round toes, chunky, curved heels and at times big platforms, that were very much in line with the stripper heel trend we’re keeping our eyes on.
We’re using the boot to throw things off in a little strange way,” said Beckham.
Another designer who freely embraces all things sexy and a little perverse is Christopher Kane. His fall 2020 collection referenced lingerie heavily with “G-string lace” bralettes and plenty of cutouts. The sexy lace made its way down to the shoes, in the form of a pair of sturdy black mules with green lace socks attached to them. There was plenty more to take in, including strappy sandals and animal print boots embellished with Kane’s signature gel patches in a rainbow of colours.
Emilia Wickstead is another one to watch. After an ongoing collaboration with Charlotte Olympia, she launched her own shoe range last year and has kept expanding it every since. For fall, she presented minimalist black and white lace-up boots that grounded her romantic creations, as well as easy-going low-heeled mules that came in the same wallpaper-like prints as her dresses.
In the contemporary world, Rejina Pyo led the way as usual, with a wide range of square-toe flats in muted shades and animal print boots, that were perfectly tucked in to jeans or smart crepe pants, proving that the trend is not going anywhere come next fall.
A.W.A.K.E is another contemporary favourite which ticked a lot of trend boxes by refreshing its offer of square-toe mules and strappy or thong sandals. Exciting new additions also came in the form of sandals in bright pops of red and blue, embellished with suede tassels that brushed the floor as the models walked down the runway.
When it came to collaborations, Roksanda’s tie-in with Malone Souliers stood out. The two brands have had a successful ongoing partnership and this season they got together again to create some real show-stoppers in the form of extra slouchy leather boots in burnt orange or a striking fuchsia, inspired by the bright, upbeat artworks of female artists Lee Krasner and Rana Begum.
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